How Can You Tell If Your Paver Contractor Is Mistaking And Cutting Corners on Base Preparation?

Base preparation is 70% of paver installation quality. It's also where cheap contractors save the most money by cutting corners. The problem? You can't see the base after pavers are placed.

Here's the truth: Most paver failures in Orlando happen because contractors skipped proper base prep. Not because pavers are bad. Not because of Florida's climate. Because someone saved $2,000 by doing a terrible base.

The 5 mistake signs your contractor cut corners on paver base preparation:

1. Pavers sinking or settling within 2-3 years

2. Weeds growing everywhere between pavers

3. Edges spreading apart or collapsing

4. Standing water pools that never drain

5. Pavers rocking or moving when you walk on them

paver base preparation mistakes, If you see even one of these signs, your base was done wrong.

Why this matters: Fixing failed base means tearing out everything and starting over. Cost: $8,000-$15,000 for average driveway. That "cheap" installation just became the most expensive mistake you'll make.

In this guide: We'll show you exactly what proper base prep looks like, what shortcuts contractors take, and how to spot problems before (and after) installation.

What Does PROPER Paver Base Preparation Look Like in Orlando?

Before we cover the shortcuts, let's establish the right way. This is what you should get:

The 8-Step Proper Process:

Step 1: Excavation (8-9 inches deep)

• Dig 8-9 inches below where pavers will sit

• Remove all grass, roots, and organic material

• Create level base (laser level, not eyeballed)

• Slope 2% away from structures for drainage

Step 2: Soil Compaction

• Compact exposed soil with plate compactor

• Run compactor in multiple directions

• Check for soft spots and correct them

• This is your foundation - it must be solid

Step 3: Geotextile Fabric Installation

• Roll out commercial-grade weed barrier fabric

• Overlap seams by 6-12 inches

• Fabric prevents weeds from below

• Also prevents base aggregate from mixing with soil

Step 4: First Base Layer (3 inches)

• Spread 3 inches of crushed aggregate (#57 stone or 3/4" crushed limestone)

• Rake level across entire area

• Water lightly to help compaction

• Compact with plate compactor (2-3 passes)

Step 5: Second Base Layer (3-4 inches)

• Add another 3-4 inches of aggregate

• Total base depth now 6-7 inches

• Level and grade for drainage

• Compact thoroughly (2-3 passes)

Step 6: Stone Dust Leveling Layer (1 inch)

• Add 1 inch of stone dust (not sand)

• This is your leveling course

• Screed perfectly flat with rails

• Do NOT compact (pavers will compact it)

Step 7: Edge Restraints

• Install aluminum edge restraints around perimeter

• Stake every 12-16 inches

• Must be sturdy (holds pavers in place for 25+ years)

• Plastic restraints = cheap shortcut that fails

Step 8: Final Check

• Verify 2% slope away from house

• Check all edges are secure

• Confirm total base depth is 7-8 inches

• Take photos (proof of proper base)

Total Time for Proper Base: 2-3 days for average driveway

Total Materials Cost: $6-9 per square foot (before pavers)

compacted base

Sign #1: Your Pavers Are Sinking or Settling (Within 2-3 Years)

What It Looks Like:

• Low spots appear in driveway or patio

• Pavers have dropped 1-2 inches in areas

• Entire sections look sunken

• Water pools in these low spots

• You can feel the dip when walking or driving over it

What Caused This:

Shortcut #1: Base Too Thin

Proper base: 6-7 inches of compacted aggregate Cheap contractor base: 3-4 inches (or just sand)

Why thin base fails:

• Not enough material to distribute weight

• Vehicle traffic compresses thin base quickly

• Orlando's sandy soil has nothing solid to grip

• Base material sinks into soft soil underneath

The Math:

• Proper base materials cost: $3-4 per square foot

• Thin base materials cost: $1-2 per square foot

• Savings for contractor: $2 per square foot × 400 sq ft = $800

That $800 savings causes $3,000-$5,000 in repair costs for you.

Shortcut #2: Poor or No Compaction

Proper compaction: 2-3 passes with 5,000+ pound plate compactor on each layer

Cheap contractor compaction:

• One quick pass (or none at all)

• Uses lightweight compactor (2,000 pounds)

• Doesn't compact in layers (dumps all base at once)

• Skips compacting native soil first

Why poor compaction fails:

• Base settles over time instead of being stable

• Creates voids where material shifts

• Uneven settling (some areas sink more than others)

Shortcut #3: Wrong Base Material

Proper material: Crushed angular aggregate (#57 stone, 3/4" crushed limestone)

Wrong materials contractors use:

• Sand only (compresses and washes away)

• Round river gravel (rolls and shifts - no interlock)

• Recycled concrete (breaks down, uneven sizes)

• Mixed materials (inconsistent compaction)

How to Spot This BEFORE Installation:

Ask contractor: "What base material do you use and how deep?"

Good answer: "6-7 inches of #57 crushed stone or 3/4 inch crushed limestone, compacted in two layers"

Bad answers:

• "We use sand" 🚩

• "4 inches of gravel" 🚩

• "Whatever's available" 🚩

• "Compacted base" (vague - what material?) 🚩

Can Settling Be Fixed?

Small areas (under 50 sq ft): Yes, by removing pavers, adding base, re-compacting, resetting pavers. Cost: $500-$1,500

Large areas (over 100 sq ft): Usually need complete tear-out and redo. Cost: $5,000-$12,000

Sign #2: Weeds Growing Between Every Paver

What It Looks Like:

• Weeds sprouting from joints between pavers

• Green growth everywhere (not just edges)

• Weeds come back days after you pull them

• Grass growing up through paver gaps

• Dandelions, dollar weed, nut sedge taking over

What Caused This:

Shortcut #4: No Geotextile Fabric

Proper installation: Commercial-grade weed barrier fabric under entire baseCheap installation: No fabric at all

Why no fabric causes weed invasion:

• Weed seeds in soil germinate and grow up through base

• Grass roots penetrate from edges

• Base aggregate mixes with soil (creates growing medium)

• No barrier stops root growth from below

The Cost Difference:

• Geotextile fabric: $0.50-$1.00 per square foot

• 400 sq ft driveway: $200-$400 in fabric cost

• Contractor saves $400 by skipping fabric

• You spend $300-$500 per year fighting weeds

Shortcut #5: Using Sand Instead of Stone Dust

Proper installation: 1 inch stone dust leveling layerCheap installation: Sand leveling layer

Why sand causes weed problems:

• Sand retains moisture (weeds love this)

• Seeds blow into joints and germinate in sand

• Sand washes away, leaving gaps for weed roots

• Creates perfect growing medium between pavers

Shortcut #6: Poor Quality Polymeric Sand

Proper installation: Premium polymeric sand that hardens like weak concreteCheap installation: Regular sand or low-quality polymeric sand

Why cheap joint sand fails:

• Doesn't harden properly in Florida humidity

• Washes out during afternoon thunderstorms

• Ants tunnel through cheap polymeric sand

• Breaks down in 6-12 months instead of 3-5 years

How to Spot This BEFORE Installation:

Ask: "Do you install geotextile fabric under the base?"

Good answer: "Yes, commercial-grade fabric under the entire area with overlapped seams"

Bad answers:

• "Not necessary in Florida" 🚩 (FALSE)

• "We've never had weed problems" 🚩 (They will)

• "Polymeric sand prevents weeds" 🚩 (Only if you have fabric too)

Can This Be Fixed?

Sort of, but not easily:

• Kill existing weeds with herbicide

• Remove old joint sand

• Install new premium polymeric sand

• Re-sand every 2-3 years

• Cost: $300-$600 each time

But weeds keep coming back because there's no fabric barrier underneath. Real fix = tear out and install fabric properly.

Sign #3: Paver Edges Are Spreading Apart or Collapsing

What It Looks Like:

• Gaps appearing along driveway edges

• Edge pavers tilting outward

• End pavers loose or wobbly

• Space between pavers keeps growing

• Edges look wavy or uneven

What Caused This:

Shortcut #7: No Edge Restraints

Proper installation: Aluminum edge restraints staked every 12-16 inches around entire perimeter

Cheap installation: No edge restraints at all

Why edges fail without restraints:

• Nothing holds pavers in place

• Vehicle weight pushes pavers outward

• Walking on edges causes spreading

• First year looks OK, then edges collapse

• Entire paver field starts shifting

Shortcut #8: Plastic Edge Restraints

Some contractors use plastic edge restraints instead of aluminum.

Why plastic fails in Florida:

• Becomes brittle in UV sun exposure

• Breaks after 2-3 years

• Can't handle heavy vehicle weight

• Stakes pull out of sandy soil

• Not strong enough for Orlando's climate

The Cost Difference:

• Aluminum edge restraints: $8-12 per linear foot

• Plastic edge restraints: $3-5 per linear foot

• Typical driveway perimeter: 80-100 linear feet

• Savings: $400-$700

Shortcut #9: Insufficient Base Extension

Proper installation: Base extends 6 inches beyond paver edgeCheap installation: Base stops right at paver edge

Why this causes edge failure:

• No support under edge restraints

• Restraints sink into soil

• Base erodes from underneath edges

• Creates instability along entire perimeter

How to Spot This BEFORE Installation:

Look at the edge during installation:

• Should see aluminum edge restraint (silver/gray, rigid)

• Should see stakes every 12-16 inches

• Base should extend beyond pavers

• Restraint should be at same height as paver bottom

Can This Be Fixed?

Yes, easier than other issues:

• Remove edge pavers

• Install proper aluminum edge restraints

• Extend base material underneath

• Reset edge pavers

• Cost: $800-$1,500 depending on perimeter length

• 

Sign #4: Water Pools and Never Drains After Rain

What It Looks Like:

• Puddles sit on pavers for hours after rain

• Water pools in specific low spots

• Pavers stay wet long after rain stops

• Algae or mold growing on pavers

• Slippery surfaces from constant moisture

What Caused This:

Shortcut #10: No Drainage Planning

Proper installation: 2% slope away from buildings + drainage channels for heavy rain areas

Cheap installation: "Eyeballed" leveling with no slope consideration

Why no slope causes standing water:

• Water has nowhere to go

• Pools on top of pavers

• Florida gets 50+ inches of rain per year

• Afternoon thunderstorms test drainage constantly

The Math on Proper Slope:

• 2% slope = 2.4 inches drop per 10 feet

• 20-foot patio needs 4.8 inches total drop

• Contractor must use laser level or transit

• "Eyeballing it" never works

Shortcut #11: Base Not Permeable

Proper installation: Open-graded crushed aggregate base (water drains through)

Wrong materials:

• Dense-graded aggregate (water trapped)

• Crushed fines that compact too tight

• Sand that holds water

• Clay-contaminated materials

Shortcut #12: No Consideration for Existing Drainage

Proper installation: Contractor surveys property, notes:

• Where water naturally flows

• Location of downspouts

• Low spots in yard

• Underground drainage pipes

• Designs paver installation to work with natural drainage

Cheap installation: Contractor shows up and starts digging without checking existing drainage patterns

Result: Water that used to drain naturally now gets trapped against your foundation, causing:

• Basement flooding

• Foundation cracks

• Mold in crawl spaces

• Soil erosion under pavers

How to Spot This BEFORE Installation:

Ask: "How will you handle drainage? What slope will you create?"

Good answer: "We'll slope 2% toward the street/drainage swale. I'll verify slope with level at completion. We'll also add drainage channel along the house foundation."

Bad answers:

• "Pavers drain naturally" 🚩 (Not enough)

• "Never had drainage issues" 🚩 (Doesn't mean they planned for it)

• No mention of slope percentage 🚩

Can This Be Fixed?

Sometimes, but expensive:

• Remove affected pavers

• Re-grade base to proper slope

• Add drainage channels or French drains

• Reset pavers

• Cost: $2,000-$5,000

Sign #5: Pavers Rock or Move When You Walk on Them

What It Looks Like:

• Individual pavers shift when stepped on

• Rocking motion (like stepping on seesaw)

• Pavers feel loose or unstable

• Can wiggle pavers by hand

• Clicking or clunking sounds when walking

What Caused This:

Shortcut #13: Inadequate or No Stone Dust Layer

Proper installation: 1 inch of stone dust screeded perfectly level

Cheap installation:

• Pavers set directly on aggregate base (uneven)

• Thin stone dust layer (1/4 inch)

• Sand instead of stone dust

Why this causes rocking:

• Uneven surface under pavers

• High and low spots

• Pavers don't sit flat

• Gaps under paver corners

Shortcut #14: Poor Compaction After Paver Placement

Proper installation: Run plate compactor over pavers 2-3 times after installation

Purpose:

• Sets pavers into stone dust

• Creates level surface

• Locks pavers together

• Eliminates rocking

Cheap installation: Skip final compaction or one quick pass

Shortcut #15: Wrong Paver Pattern

Some paver patterns are structurally weak:

• Running bond (parallel to traffic) shifts easily

• Stack bond (no interlock) allows movement

• Large format pavers without enough joints

Proper patterns for driveways:

• Herringbone 45° (strongest)

• Herringbone 90°

• Basketweave (good for patios)

How to Test This DURING Installation:

Before contractor leaves:

• Walk entire area

• Step on every section

• Check for rocking pavers

• Wiggle edge pavers by hand

• Don't accept "they'll settle in"

Pavers should be rock-solid immediately after installation.

Can This Be Fixed?

Yes, relatively easy:

• Remove rocking pavers

• Add stone dust underneath

• Re-level and compact

• Reset pavers

• Cost: $200-$800 depending on how many pavers

Why Do Paver Contractors Take These Shortcuts?

It's always about money.

Time Savings:

Proper base installation: 2-3 days for average drivewayShortcut installation: 1 day or less

Contractors save:

• 1-2 days of labor ($800-$1,600)

• Equipment rental fees ($200-$400 per day)

• Can start next job sooner (more jobs = more money)

Material Cost Savings:

Proper materials for 400 sq ft driveway:

• Geotextile fabric: $200-$400

• 6-7" base aggregate: $1,200-$1,600

• Stone dust: $200-$300

• Aluminum edge restraints: $800-$1,000

• Total: $2,400-$3,300

Shortcut materials:

• No fabric: $0

• 3-4" thin base: $600-$800

• Sand instead of stone dust: $100

• Plastic or no edge restraints: $200

• Total: $900-$1,100

Savings: $1,400-$2,200 per driveway

Volume Business Model:

Cheap contractors think:

• Do 3 driveways per week instead of 1

• Save $1,500 per job on materials

• Extra profit: $4,500 per week

• Customer discovers problems in 2-3 years

• They'll be out of business or unreachable by then

The Bait and Switch:

Some contractors bid properly to win the job, then cut corners during installation hoping you won't notice until warranty expires.

Warning Signs During Bidding:

Quote is 30-40% lower than other bids:

• $7,000 when others bid $11,000-$12,000

• Impossible to do it right for that price

• Math doesn't work unless they're cutting corners

The "We Do Things Differently" Line:

Contractor says: "We have special methods that are faster"

Translation: "We skip steps other contractors include"

How to Spot Base Prep Shortcuts BEFORE Pavers Get Placed

You can't see the base after pavers are installed. Catch problems during installation:

Inspection #1: During Excavation

Stop by and check:

• Depth: Should be 8-9 inches deep (use tape measure)

• Level: Should look reasonably flat (not wavy)

• Debris removed: No grass clumps, roots, or organic material

• Soil compacted: Should be firm when you step on it

Inspection #2: After Fabric Installation

Check:

• Fabric present: Should see black fabric covering entire area

• Overlaps: Seams should overlap 6-12 inches

• No gaps: Every inch should have fabric underneath

• Extended beyond edge: Fabric should go past where pavers will end

Inspection #3: After Base Installation

This is THE most important inspection:

• Measure depth: Should be 6-7 inches of aggregate (stick ruler down through aggregate)

• Material quality: Should be angular crushed stone (not round gravel, not sand)

• Compaction: Walk on it - should feel rock-solid, not squishy

• Slope: Water from hose should run away from house

• Edge restraints: Should see aluminum restraints staked around perimeter

Request Photos:

Tell contractor upfront: "Please text me photos of base before placing pavers"

Get photos showing:

• Fabric installation

• Base depth (with tape measure visible)

• Edge restraint installation

• Overall base before pavers

If contractor refuses: 🚩 What are they hiding?

Inspection #4: Stone Dust Layer

Right before pavers go down:

• Should see 1 inch of stone dust or sand

• Should be screeded perfectly flat (use straightedge or level)

• Should cover entire base evenly

The "Can I See It Before You Cover It?" Test:

Ask contractor: "Can I inspect the base before pavers go down?"

Good contractor: "Absolutely! I'm proud of my base work. Come anytime."

Bad contractor: "Trust me, it's done right" or "You'll see photos later"

💡 Pro Tip from Local Pavers LLC: We text base photos to every customer automatically. You shouldn't have to ask. If your contractor is defensive about showing base work, that's a massive red flag.

What Should Proper Base Preparation Cost in Orlando?

Material and Labor Breakdown:

For 400 sq ft driveway:

• Excavation: $600-$800

• Geotextile fabric: $200-$400

• Base aggregate (6-7 inches): $1,200-$1,600

• Stone dust layer: $200-$300

• Edge restraints: $800-$1,000

• Labor for base work: $1,200-$1,600

• Total base cost: $4,200-$5,700

Per Square Foot:

• Base preparation: $10-14 per square foot

• Pavers and installation: $6-10 per square foot

• Total project: $16-24 per square foot

Why Cheap Quotes Are Red Flags:

If someone quotes $8-10 per square foot total:

• Impossible to include proper base at that price

• They're either losing money (won't happen)

• Or cutting corners (guaranteed)

What Local Pavers LLC Charges:

We include proper base in every quote:

• $16-22 per square foot for driveways

• $14-20 per square foot for patios

• $18-24 per square foot for pool decks

Our quotes include proper 6-7 inch base, fabric, aluminum edge restraints - no shortcuts.

Can You Fix Base Preparation Mistakes After Installation?

Short answer: Usually no - not without starting over.

Small Problem Areas:

If less than 10-15% of pavers have issues:

• Remove affected pavers

• Excavate and rebuild base in that section

• Reinstall pavers

• Cost: $500-$2,000

Large Problem Areas:

If more than 20% of pavers have issues:

• Complete tear-out and reinstallation required

• Remove all pavers and base

• Start from scratch with proper methods

• Cost: $8,000-$15,000 for average driveway

Why Partial Fixes Don't Work:

If base problems are widespread:

• Fixing one area doesn't fix underlying issue

• Problems spread to adjacent areas

• Band-aid fixes only last 6-12 months

• You throw money at temporary solutions

The Expensive Reality:

Many Orlando homeowners face this:

• Paid $7,000 for cheap installation

• Base fails after 2-3 years

• Contractor disappeared or won't return calls

• Now must pay $12,000 for complete redo

• Total cost: $19,000 (nearly 3x what proper installation costs)

Prevention Costs Less:

Proper installation: $12,000 upfront, lasts 25-30 yearsCheap installation: $7,000 now + $12,000 redo in 3 years = $19,000

Don't be penny-wise and pound-foolish.

Special Base Considerations for Orlando's Climate and Soil

Florida's Sandy Soil:

Orlando sits on deep sand (sometimes 50+ feet):

• Sand drains fast (good for pavers)

• But provides no structure (bad for support)

• Proper base is MORE important here than northern climates

• Need deeper, better-compacted base than up north

Heavy Rain Requirements:

50+ inches annual rainfall means:

• Drainage is critical (2% slope minimum)

• Afternoon thunderstorms test base constantly

• Poor drainage erodes base from underneath

• Must include drainage channels and proper grading

No Freeze-Thaw BUT High Water Table:

Benefits:

• No frost heave (pavers don't shift from freezing)

• No winter/spring base settling

Challenges:

• High water table in some areas (Lake Nona, Dr. Phillips near water)

• Base can become saturated and unstable

• May need deeper excavation to reach stable soil

• Some areas require specialized base materials

Hurricane Considerations:

While rare in Orlando, hurricanes bring:

• 10+ inches of rain in 24 hours

• 70-100 mph winds

• Fallen trees and debris

• Proper base drainage handles extreme weather better

Orange County Building Code:

Requires:

• Minimum 6-inch compacted base (we do 7 inches)

• 2% slope away from structures

• Licensed contractor for base work

• Inspections at base stage

HOA Requirements:

Winter Park, Windermere, Celebration HOAs often require:

• Proof of proper base depth (photos)

• Licensed contractor certification

• Adherence to manufacturer specifications

10 Questions to Ask Your Contractor About Base Preparation

Before you hire anyone, ask these specific questions:

1. "How deep will you excavate?" (Want: 8-9 inches)

2. "What base material will you use?" (Want: #57 stone or 3/4" crushed limestone)

3. "How many inches of base aggregate?" (Want: 6-7 inches compacted)

4. "Do you install geotextile fabric?" (Want: Yes, commercial grade)

5. "How do you compact the base?" (Want: Plate compactor, multiple passes, in layers)

6. "What edge restraints do you use?" (Want: Aluminum, staked every 12-16 inches)

7. "What slope will you create for drainage?" (Want: 2% minimum away from structures)

8. "Can I see the base before pavers are placed?" (Want: "Absolutely yes!")

9. "Do you extend base beyond paver edges?" (Want: Yes, 6 inches past edge)

10. "Can you text me photos of base during installation?" (Want: "Yes, we do this automatically")

If contractor can't answer these specifically, or gets defensive, walk away.

Don't Let Contractors Cut Corners on Your Paver Base

The 5 signs of cut corners:

1. ✓ Pavers sinking or settling within 2-3 years

2. ✓ Weeds growing everywhere between pavers

3. ✓ Edges spreading apart or collapsing

4. ✓ Water pooling and never draining

5. ✓ Pavers rocking or moving when walked on

If you see ANY of these signs, your base was done wrong.

Proper base preparation costs $10-14 per square foot but lasts 25-30 years. Shortcuts save contractors $1,500-$2,000 per job but cost you $10,000+ in repairs within 3-5 years.

Get Base Prep Done Right From Day One

Local Pavers LLC never cuts corners on base:

• 6-7 inches compacted crushed aggregate

• Commercial-grade geotextile fabric

• Aluminum edge restraints

• 2% drainage slope

• Photos texted to you during installation

• 5-year workmanship warranty

📞 Call (689) 221-5641 for free consultation

Schedule Free Consultation

Learn More About Paver Installation:

→ 10 Questions to Ask Before Hiring a Paver Contractor Protect yourself from bad contractors

→ Can You Put Pavers Over Concrete Pool Decks? Learn the right overlay method vs shortcuts

→ Why Are My Pavers Sinking? Diagnosis & Repair Guide Fix settlement problems

→ Why Choose Local Pavers LLC? See our 20 reasons we do installation right

About Local Pavers LLC

We created this guide after fixing hundreds of failed paver installations across Orlando. Most failures happen because contractors cut corners on base preparation to save money.

At Local Pavers LLC, we document every base installation with photos so customers see exactly what's under their pavers. No shortcuts, no excuses.

Licensed FL Contractor | A+ BBB Rating | 500+ Projects

Free base inspection: (689) 221-5641